Bocas del Toro
Where have 12 countries filmed their Survivor series? The answer is the exotic Bocas del Toro Archipelago in the Caribbean of West Panama near the border with Costa Rica.
Bocas is one of Panama's top tourist attractions and with good reason. Where else can you enjoy beautiful beaches with scarcely a soul in sight and rainforests so fine Lonely Planet Guide calls them "a biologists fantasy".
Bocas del Toro is an archipelago of islands with classic Caribbean aqua blue water, palm lined beaches set against nature-dense rainforest. The town of Bocas is home to most hotels and services and is low key, friendly and fun. Surfing, birding, dolphin observation, nature tours, snorkeling and diving are some of Bocas' attractions. Bocas is perfect for both couples seeking romantic natural surroundings and families who want to have quality fun and nature-education experiences together.
Like the rest of Panama, Bocas is blessed by nature: no hurricanes ever touch these shores, as they do the Central American neighbors. Add to that relatively low prices, pristine beauty and you've got the "Bocas Boom." Bocas is not only a top tourism destination but also a popular place for second homes and retirement.
Bocas town on Isla Colon has a rich history, a lively nightlife scene, good restaurants and a friendly, mostly English speaking population. Most hotels are located in town and it is a launching pad for all Bocas del Toro attractions.
Christopher Columbus was the first white man to anchor in Bocas waters in 1502. He found the calm waters the perfect place to repair his boats and named Carinero Island. Later, English pirates used Bocas as safe haven and later in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Bocas became an international commercial center for trade in cacao and bananas. Bocas was populated mainly by immigrants from Jamaica making Bocas an English speaking province in a Spanish speaking nation. Even today, most locals speak English.
At the turn of the century, the town of Bocas del Toro was the first headquarters of the United Fruit Company. Boasting of 25,000 inhabitants, it had six consuls and five newspapers. A banana blight in the l920's put an end to this vibrant commercial center, but historical buildings and a stately park still stand.
In recent years, Bocas has been experiencing a real-estate boom. Prices of land have skyrocketed. However, they still represent some of the best buys in the Caribbean. Who is buying in Bocas? Mostly American "baby boomers" who are snapping up water and beach front lots with an eye to building a vacation/retirement home in the near future. Many lovely homes have already been built. Bocas is a place of unusual island beauty in Central America's most sophisticated country. Others buy because on a retirement income, you can enjoy "the good life" in safe and beautiful surroundings.
Hotels start from $10 a night for the pack backer crowd, with lots of attractive middle range hotels in the $25-$80 range. The one upscale hotel in town is Tropical Suites. In January 2008, Playa Tortuga Resort, Boca's first 4 star hotel will open, on a pretty beach 10 minutes from downtown Bocas. On Colon Island and the surrounding islands like Bastimientos and Carinero there are a variety of excellent eco-resorts and small hotels.
How To Get There
The town of Bocas, on Colon Island is reachable by air with daily flights from Panama City as well as flights from San Jose, Costa Rica. You can also come by bus and take a ferry from the mainland. Aeroperlas and Air Panama have several daily flights from Panama City to Bocas. Round trip tickets from Panama City are around $165.00.
By land you can take a bus or car to Almirante on the mainland and take a launch ('taxi 25') or ferry to Bocas town on the main island, Isla Colon In Almirante there's a safe place to leave your vehicle for the duration of your stay in Bocas. You won't need a car in Bocas. The drive between David and Almirante is mountainous and very scenic.
Bocas town is small and you get most places by walking. Bocas taxis are inexpensive-they will take you anywhere around town for between 50 cents and a dollar. For island excursions you can arrange for a taxi to take you to a beach and come get you at a later hour. If you are going to one of the other islands, water taxis are plentiful and cheap. Bikes are also available for rent. If you are walking around late at night, stay on the main streets.
Where To Stay
Bocas has a hotel for every budget. There are pensions for the back packer, hotels and eco-lodges for most every budget. You can stay on the main island, Isla Colon, in Bocas town (many hotels have sea views), or outside town on a beach or over the water. The nearby islands of Bastimientos and Carinero have attractive small, cabins and ecolodges on the nearby. Many offer extraordinary close-to-nature experiences. For more info including hotel websites, see our hotel list to the right.
What To Do
Take a Bocas Highlights Tour
The best way to get to know Bocas is to take a Bocas one-day boat tour. Ancon Expeditions offers this as do others in Bocas town. A Bocas intro boat tour generally takes you to Dolphin Bay where you'll observe dolphins cavorting and playfully approaching your boat, to a gorgeous beach like Red Frog or Zapatillas Keys, cruising through mangroves, a seafood lunch at Coral Cay in the middle of the ocean and snorkeling at Hospital Point. This is a fantastic set of attractions and makes for a really memorable day.
Diving and Snorkeling
The best places for diving are Coral Key, Dark Wood Reef, Hospital Point and Punta Juan Buoy. For snorkeling, the Garden near Cayo Nancy, and Punta Juan buoy are excellent. Go with a diving tour operator or hire a water taxi and go on your own.
When diving in Bocas you will be able to see some of the best preserved hard and soft coral in the world. You will also have the opportunity to see sting rays, lobsters, many species of crabs and a countless variety of tropical reef fish.
Get certified: Bocas Water Sports offers PADI scuba courses from Discover Scuba, open water including certification in Advanced, Rescue, First Aid or Dive Master courses that cost a lot less than similar courses in the United States.
Bocas Butterfly Farm
: On Colon Island just a few minutes by water taxi ($2), you pass through thick mangroves to an exotic island garden with a large mesh tent where you see hundreds colorful butterflies and you can also witness all stages of their life cycle from tiny egg to curious caterpillar and jewel like pupa. Highly Recommended.
River Tours/ Indian Village Tour
For something different, take a river trip that includes a visit to an authentic Ngobe Butle Indian village- an encounter with a way of life that has changed little since the time when Columbus discovered Bocas. You'll see stunning jungle scenery and wildlife including possible manatees- large aquatic animals also known as "sea cows."
Rainforests
Flora is everywhere. Mangroves and jungles line the coast. Exotic Bird Island has birds seen only on that island. You need a nature guide to enjoy more than just exotic scenery and so we recommend you take a tour with a tour operator.
Nightlife
Bocas is a low-key and friendly town where it is easy to meet with fellow travelers and the local people. In some places of town, every night it's a party.
On the water is the Buena Vista Deli & Bar, known for good times and good food. For a younger crowd, start with Mondo Taitu, to meet an international mix of young travelers and surfers, and an equally diverse menu of specialty island cocktails (think mojito with a twist), served by the young, hip and friendly bartenders. Also fun is the newer La Iguana, right on the water. Don't forget to visit the famous Barco Hundido, also known as the "wreck-deck," which is a good place to get your dance on. Like anywhere, it is advisable to practice discretion and stay on the lighted main streets at night.
Souvenir Shopping
Souvenir shops can be found on Bocas main street and hippies from all over the world can be found lining the mainstreet with their crafts and beautiful jewelry. Also, on the opposite end of the main street just before the end is a display of molas attended by the Kuna Indians.
Panama is famous for its molas-colorful reverse applique cloth designs. This humble stand has the best selection of molas we have seen anywhere. You have the added satisfaction of purchasing directly from the Indians and knowing your dollar will go a long way to helping these worthy people.
Restaurants
Bocas restaurants are easy on the budget and have a surprising variety of offerings. For seafood we recommend El Pecado and El Refugio on for dishes that will satisfy the sophisticated palate but are reasonably priced.
Across the street from El Pecado, La Laguna Hotel offers mostly Italian dishes including a yummy pizza, and has street side seating making it the best place in town for people watching. Bahia Hotel has a good Italian restaurant with some of the best pizza in town.
For excellent 'gringo' food, we highly recommend Buena Vista. Kum Ja is the only Chinese restaurant and the food is inexpensive and good. Another popular and good restaurant is Om for East Indian food. If you are just looking to take out a beach-picnic lunch, stop by at the Super Gourmet Deli for epicurean sandwiches.
Dining during the day on the islands outside of Bocas: For seafood in incomparable surroundings, take a water taxi to restaurant Coral Cay, perched on stilts over the sea. Your lobster will be picked live from a sea cage and you will enjoy gorgeous seaviews all around as you wait for your dish to be prepared. This is a Bocas must-do. Most tours will take you there as part of their route.
Special Treats
Some of the best cinnamon rolls anywhere are baked in a Bocas bakery. Buy them the German Bakery by the central park and in The Gourmet Shop, (which has lots of other goodies) at the end of main street by the sea.
Learn Spanish
The best way to learn a language is to be in a place where the language is spoken. Take advantage of your Bocas stay by taking a Spanish course at Spanish By The Sea, an excellent place to learn Spanish.